The Women Changing Fashion

THE JUSTICE LEAGUE

rosario dawson and abrima erwiah of studio 189

Rosario Dawson and Abrima Erwiah of Studio 189.COURTESY OF STUDIO 189

Over the last decade, we’ve all become increasingly well-informed about where, how, and by whom our clothing is manufactured. Activist Aditi Mayer has been one of the voices bringing attention to those questions. She began examining the historical, social, and political injustices that bolster the estimated $1.7 trillion industry in the wake of 2013’s Rana Plaza factory collapse in Bangladesh. “All the greatest fights of our time—from the climate catastrophe to racism—are acutely linked by a mentality of seeing nature, or communities, as disposable,” she says. “Fashion, as an industry, is an extension of this.”

Each of the 12 women featured here experienced similar moments that spurred them to do their part and utilize their own unique skill sets, from policymaking to inventing alternative leathers.

Fashion Uncategorized
We’re in the Era of Shipwreck Chic
london, england december 15 rosalia performs at the o2 arena on december 15, 2022 in london, england photo by samir husseinwireimage
Rosalía performs at The o2 Arena in London.
SAMIR HUSSEIN

There’s this look I can’t get out of my head lately. It defies neat categorization. Drenched. Asymmetrical. Slightly disheveled but in a considered, intentional way. SZA does a version of it in her music video for “Shirt” (the one where she and LaKeith Stanfield cycle through disguises and spray gunfire on everyone they meet). It’s the way she looks in the story’s final act; after he betrays her and she exacts revenge, enlisting a small kitchen crew to—I can only assume—butcher him while she shoves his car into the sea.

Pause here, seven seconds into minute three of this Pulp Fiction-esque drama. Her skin shimmers softly. Her hair sits long and loose around her shoulders. Her dress is a lightweight ribbed knit the color of bone, and all the hems are raw, winding, and tattered. It’s as if she’s just emerged from a violent tide and taken a moment to sun on the shore. A single strand of cowrie shells dangles near her right ear as she moves through port de bras. The trawler she’s standing on glides off into a rainbowed horizon. Call it shipwreck chic.

Designer Fashion Uncategorized
Clowncore Is the Trend of the Season
christopher john rogers pre fall 2023
A look from Christopher John Rogers’ pre-fall 2023 collection.
COURTESY

This year is shaping up to be all about clownery in fashion, and it’s every bit theatrical. Christopher John Rogers kicked things off with his pre-fall 2023 collection, where the designer unveiled a magical ivory white clown suit, replete with silk flowers for added drama. Now, the theme of the clown has seemingly reached its sartorial peak: it was literally everywhere at the spring 2023 couture shows in Paris. Dior presented a fancy clown collar inspired by the wardrobe of Josephine Baker, while Armani Privé fully devoted itself to sparkling harlequin prints and patterns. Chanel’s decorative top hats and bows spoke to the fantasy of a ringleader. Even Marni’s fall 2023 show, which took place in Japan, alluded to the high-volume, absurd shapes and silhouettes of the classic character’s outfit.

Fashion Lifestyle Uncategorized